21 Day UK Itinerary: an aesthetic slow travel honeymoon guide for London, the Cotswolds, the Lake District, and Edinburgh
Our three weeks in the UK was a magical one. I always long for more time; however, I feel like we were able to get a good introduction to the English countryside. We still have lots of reasons to come back (the list grows longer the more time you spend in a place I always find). I’ve included everything that was in our actual itinerary, including the few extras that we could have fit in had we not been trying to keep things low-key (we try to keep things slow) and notes on some things I would change.
If you are familiar at all with the way I travel (maybe you’ve read up on some of my past adventures), you know I like to take things one country at a time. People in the community wouldn’t necessarily call me a slow traveler, as most of my trips are about three weeks in length; but I don’t country hop, so I can get to know a place. Another thing: I’ve found it best not to make a timed itinerary. Make a list, try to see as much of it as reasonably possible, but don’t worry about having it all planned out. Having a list allows you to knock off your top sights right away, and to see extra things if time allows.
So without further ado, here is our three week itinerary around England (with a few days in Edinburgh, Scotland at the end):
Westminster Abbey, London
night 1/2/3/4 - London
We arrived in London ready to soak in the energy of my favourite big city. The goal: to give my husband Calin a taste of London, a place I’ve returned to many times, and one that still holds endless corners to explore. Our first evening was spent wandering Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park.
Jet lag meant an early morning. We wandered through the quiet streets as the city stirred. After coffee, we headed to Westminster Abbey, one of the few ticketed sights we prioritized. The stained glass, cloisters, and tombs were worth every moment. From there, we crossed the bridge to the South Bank, pausing to watch street performers and enjoy the riverside views of the London Eye. We kept moving: Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, St James’ Park, Buckingham Palace. It was a whirlwind, and in hindsight, I wish we’d slowed down. Hopefully next time we’ll explore more hidden corners now that Calin has seen the major sites.
The following day began in Notting Hill, with antique shopping along Portobello Road Market (this was Saturday; so make sure to plan accordingly). Despite the crowds, it remains one of my favourite areas - full of character and colour. From there, we hopped over to Leadenhall Market, then wandered towards Tower Bridge for a view from the Queen’s Walk before grabbing a bite at Borough Market. As dusk fell, we strolled through the golden-lit streets and watched the city glow from Millennium Bridge, gazing out at St Paul’s.
Our final day in London was quieter. We visited the British Library, and the British Museum and explored Covent Garden, where cobbled streets and live music offered a bit of a slower pace. While I always wish for more time here, the trip felt complete: the perfect contrast to the calm countryside awaiting us.
the steps of Saint Paul’s Cathedral, London
Stay:
Ember Locke - spacious, stylish, and well-situated near Earl’s Court station with in-room kitchenettes and a lovely common area. Ideal for anyone who wants flexibility and modern amenities.
Sights:
Kensington Gardens – expansive park with tree-lined paths and the Peter Pan statue; home to Kensington Palace and many waterfowl.
Westminster Abbey – stunning Gothic architecture, royal tombs, and a peaceful cloister garden. Worth the entry fee.
South Bank – street performers, food stalls, and a riverside walk with views of the London Eye.
Notting Hill + Portobello Road Market – ideal for vintage shopping, people-watching, and colourful photo ops.
Leadenhall Market – historic covered market with Harry Potter vibes.
Tower Bridge – iconic, best viewed from the Queen’s Walk.
Millennium Bridge – lovely walk with views of the Thames and St. Paul’s Cathedral.
British Library – The UK's national library, housing a vast collection of books, manuscripts, and historical documents.
British Museum – free entry and vast historical collections.
Covent Garden – shopping, pubs, street performances, and a charming atmosphere.
Food:
Borough Market – great for snacks, lunch, and trying local fare.
Farm Girl – a trendy café offering health-conscious brunch options with a focus on vegetarian dishes.
Dishoom – a chain of Indian restaurants in a stylish setting. I had about 50 people recommend this place to us, and while it was tasty, it did not live up to the hype. As someone who loves Indian food and spice, every Indian restaurant in Canada has more flavourful cuisine. I would love a recommendation for the actually incredible Indian food that I hear about all the time in London.
Gordon’s Wine Bar – London's oldest wine bar, known for its candlelit cellar and extensive wine selection - this came highly recommended from a foodie friend!
Mildred’s – a pioneer in London's plant-based dining scene, offering internationally inspired vegan dishes. The dessert was to die for!
Prufrock Coffee – specialty coffee shop renowned for its expertly brewed espresso and barista training programs.
Over Under Coffee – a chic café chain blending quality coffee with a modern, minimalist aesthetic.
Formative Coffee – a central London café dedicated to serving high-quality coffee in a contemporary space.
Notes:
I could write a whole blog on just London alone… and I have, many times! If you’re interested in reading more of my past travels in London, check them out here, here, and here (my apologies, as they are old blog posts that have been moved from an older website, they no longer have pictures).
having done the London “highlights” with a few travel companions, London offers so many different types of sites, and because of the number of things to do, I would highly recommend sticking to the things you enjoy. Don’t worry about seeing something just because you think you should.
next time Calin and I are back in the city, we will focus on antiques and coffee shops! Please share any recommendations.
if you want Instagrammable photo spots; I highly recommend walking around South Kensington and Chelsea. Almost every street is colourful, the shops are aesthetic, and it is much quieter than Notting Hill. As a photographer though, I love the energy of Southwark.
view of the Palace of Westminster and Big Ben, London
night 5/6 - Surrey & Sussex
After picking up our rental car, we left London behind and began the part of our trip that truly felt like a honeymoon. We’d been dreaming of the English countryside for years; not for sightseeing, but for stillness. For soft mornings, narrow hedgerow-lined lanes, and space to just be. Driving through Surrey and Sussex, we found exactly that.
On our way to the village of Shere, we stumbled upon a charming farm & flower shop filled with crates of produce and flora. We stocked up on groceries - fresh eggs, heirloom tomatoes, and crusty bread - for quiet meals at our shepherd’s hut, where we’d be staying the next two nights.
Shere, known for its role in The Holiday, lived up to the charm: ivy-covered cottages, a little church square, winding footpaths. We stopped for tea at Hilly’s Tea Shop for the best cream tea of our trip. That evening, we had a casual dinner at The White Horse Pub (another filming spot), though the atmosphere outshone the food.
The following day, we visited the Seven Sisters and hiked up to Beachy Head - an absolute treat for our cameras.
the Seven Sisters, East Sussex
Stay:
Shepherd’s Hut - cozy and rustic with a wood-burning stove, surrounded by animals and open skies. One of our favourite stays of the entire trip.
Sights:
Shere Village – film-worthy village charm, especially for fans of The Holiday
Seven Sisters Cliffs – dramatic white chalk cliffs overlooking the sea
Beachy Head – a quiet coastal walk with panoramic views
Food:
The White Horse Pub – film location with classic pub fare
Hilly’s Tea Shop – the coziest stop for tea
Kingfisher Farm & Flower Shop – fresh groceries for simple, cozy meals at our hut
Notes:
If you’re renting a car for this part of England, opt for a smaller model (the roads are narrow!) and take your time driving.
Beachy Head Lighthouse, East Sussex
at the Shepherd’s Hut in East Sussex
night 7/8/9 - Dorset
After we left Sussex, we stopped at Arundel Castle, a fairytale estate with towers, lush gardens, and centuries of history. Rain chased us from the grounds and into the castle itself, where we explored grand halls and learned about the Duke of Norfolk. Four hours there felt rushed. We drove on through New Forest National Park, where wild ponies roam freely and the moody weather only added to the medieval atmosphere. The mist, the towering trees, the winding roads - it felt like something out of a legend. The ponies were a highlight.
That evening, we checked into a cozy hayloft conversion tucked in the Dorset countryside. Our host greeted us with a bottle of sparkling wine and honey from her own garden hives; it was one of the most thoughtful welcomes we’ve ever received. We spent the next day in Abbotsbury, a picturesque village of thatched roofs and quiet lanes. Another tea shop called to us (as they always seemed to do), and we happily gave in - scones, cream, and jam becoming our routine indulgence. When the rain returned, we slowed down, cancelling our plans to visit the Durdle Door. We spent the rest of the day curled up in blankets, books in hand, listening to the rain on the roof and watching the landscape turn to mist.
On what was meant to be a day of sightseeing farther afield, we pivoted and made our way to Weymouth: a colourful seaside town that turned out to be one of our favourite stops. With its pastel Georgian buildings, quirky arcades, and harbour dotted with fishing boats, it felt straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. A round of beers at a waterside pub was followed by fish and chips from Marlboro (a local favourite).
Arundel Castle, West Sussex
Arundel Castle, West Sussex
Stay:
Converted Barn Loft – warm, quiet, and welcoming, with countryside views and thoughtful touches.
Sights:
Arundel Castle – fairytale setting with grand interiors and sweeping gardens
New Forest – moody landscapes, ancient trees, and wild ponies
Abbotsbury – a thatched-roof gem
Weymouth – colourful harbour town with surprising charm and history
Food:
The Old School House – tea shop in Abbotsbury; always worth the pause
Marlboro – excellent fish and chips by the harbour
The George Bar & Grill - great spot for a pint on a sunny evening
Finca - specialty coffee shop in Weymouth; the barista had excellent recommendations for other spots on the trip
Notes:
We are already dreaming of a trip back to this region in the summer; and driving on further from the Jurassic Coast to Dartmoor and Cornwall.
Weymouth has a convenient parking lot on the pier, where the rest of the town is easily walkable from.
New Forest National Park
New Forest National Park
Abbotsbury, Dorset
Weymouth harbour, Dorset
Weymouth harbour, Dorset
night 10/11/12/13/14 - Cotswolds
We broke up the journey from Dorset with a stop in Bradford-upon-Avon (although the original plan was a visit to Bath, but we felt that we didn’t have enough time to spend there), where we browsed antiques before warming up with coffee and pastries at Little Rituals.
That evening, we arrived at our longest stay of the trip: a snug stone cottage just off the high street in Moreton-in-Marsh. With a crackling fireplace, twin soaking tubs, and a plush king bed, it quickly became a haven. Each morning began slowly, often at Lynwood Café, where we watched the town stir to life over coffee and pastries.
We spent our days exploring a constellation of nearby villages: Castle Combe, Bibury, Burford, Bourton-on-the-Water and -on-the-Hill, The Slaughters, and Tetbury. Some were bustling with crowds (Bibury’s Arlington Row in particular), but others were blissfully still. It was in those quiet corners that we found our favourite memories: a foggy walk between villages, a hidden shop, or a cozy tea room tucked down a lane.
One of our most magical stops was St Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold, whose north door - framed by ancient yew trees - looks straight out of Tolkien’s imagination. Many believe it inspired the Doors of Durin in The Lord of the Rings, and it’s easy to see why. The Cotswolds were beloved by Tolkien and C.S. Lewis, and wandering with them in mind added a new layer to every stone and hedgerow.
We made time for a short but sweet visit to Oxford. After stellar coffee from Society Café, we wandered through shops and market stalls, stopping at Blackwell’s Bookshop to linger. Even without a full tour, admiring Trinity College from the exterior was a treat.
One of our most cherished walks was the path from Bourton-on-the-Water to Upper Slaughter - through misty meadows and along a gentle stream, past the stillness of Lower Slaughter’s old mill. The walk was peaceful and playful; we joked it felt like the Hundred Acre Wood. No big destination, just the quiet joy of being together.
To round out our time, we booked a tasting and tour at Woodchester Valley Vineyard. With award winning sparkling wines and breathtaking views on the hills, it felt like the perfect way to indulge.
The Chipping Steps in Tetbury, in the Cotswolds
Arlington Row in Bibury, a village in the Cotswolds
Stay:
Peony Cottage - a romantic base for visiting the Cotswolds
Sights:
Bradford-upon-Avon – charming pitstop for antique shopping and cozy cafés
Castle Combe – often called England’s prettiest village; be warned it is an Instagrammers’ haven, and as there isn’t much else to do besides take photos in the streets, it is very crowded.
Stow-on-the-Wold – also a great base to explore the rest of the Cotswolds with the array of shops, restaurants, and places to stay. The north door of St Edwards Church is rumoured to have inspired Tolkien’s Doors of Durin.
Oxford – history, markets, and literary landmarks. If you want to visit the University, learn from our mistake and do not show up the day-of expecting to get in. Pre-book a tour; buy tickets ahead online. Also, I wouldn’t actually recommend coming here unless you are planning to spend a night or two in the city. Visiting as part of a trip to the Cotswolds like we did was more trouble than it was worth to navigate to the inner city, find parking, etc. If you want to visit Oxford - make time for it.
Blackwell’s Bookshop – stop in for the books, stay for the atmosphere. Make sure to check out their rare and antique book collection!
Woodchester Valley Vineyard – award-winning vineyard in a beautiful countryside setting. They have limited tours & tastings available, and they book up quickly, so be sure to book in advance!
Lacock – picturesque village known for its historic cottages and frequent appearances in period dramas and the Harry Potter films. Has a convenient parking lot just outside the village. Pronounced Lay-cock.
Bibury – often described as England’s most beautiful village, with iconic stone cottages and the tranquil River Coln. Home to the iconic Arlington Row which can get quite busy, so be sure to visit early.
Burford – medieval market town known for antique shops, historic architecture, and its charming High Street.
Northleach – quiet market town featuring a stunning church and classic Cotswold stone buildings.
Bourton-on-the-Water – nicknamed the "Venice of the Cotswolds" for its low bridges spanning a gentle river.
The Slaughters – Upper and Lower Slaughter are two idyllic, untouched villages with a historic mill and stream.
Moreton-in-Marsh – a lively town with a long-standing market tradition and convenient rail access. A great place to base yourself from as it has many amenities, including shops, restaurants, and cafés.
Bourton-on-the-Hill – a hilltop village offering expansive views and a peaceful atmosphere.
Chipping Campden – known for its elegant High Street, thatched cottages, and arts & crafts heritage.
Broadway – a thriving village with boutique shops and access to scenic walks up to Broadway Tower.
Stanton – a hidden gem with golden stone cottages and a peaceful, off-the-beaten-path feel.
Stanway – home to a Jacobean manor and the UK’s tallest gravity-fed fountain.
Tetbury - excellent antiquing and markets. The Chipping Steps are a favourite photo spot.
Winchcombe – a walker's paradise near Sudeley Castle, with cozy cafés and rolling countryside views.
Blenheim Palace – a grand estate and UNESCO World Heritage Site, rich in history and lush with gardens. The ancestral home of Sir Winston Churchill.
Food:
Lynwood Café, Moreton-in-Marsh – local favourite for breakfast and coffee
Little Rituals, Bradford-upon-Avon – cozy and creative coffee spot
Daylesford Organic – luxury farm shop with fresh local fare. Like the Erewhon of the Cotswolds.
Society Café, Oxford – excellent coffee in the centre of the city
Stow Town Coffee – local coffee shop in Stow-on-the-Wold, known for its artisanal brews and friendly service.
New England Coffee House – charming café offering a variety of coffees and pastries.
The Covered Market – Oxford – historic market housing a variety of independent shops, cafés, and food stalls.
Oxford Outdoor Market – open-air market offering fresh produce, street food, and local crafts.
The Cotswolds Cheese Co – specialty cheese shop offering a wide selection of local and international cheeses.
The Fox at Oddington – traditional Cotswold pub with a modern twist, offering seasonal menus and a warm atmosphere.
The Oxbarn – contemporary restaurant set in a restored barn, focusing on farm-to-table dining experiences.
The Potting Shed Pub – rustic pub offering hearty meals and a selection of local ales in a cozy setting.
Notes:
I’ll be putting together a more detailed guide on each part of our trip; you can subscribe to my newsletter if you’re interested. We saw so much in our days in the Cotswolds it was challenging to condense it for this list! In general though, I recommend reading up on each of the towns ahead of your trip and narrow down your list as much as possible. After a while, all the villages and towns start to blend together, and I honestly think less is more!
the country walk from Lower Slaughter to Upper Slaughter in the Cotswolds
sheep in the Cotswolds, county Gloucestershire
Convocation House in Oxford
night 15/16/17 - Lake District
Our base in the Lake District was Grasmere, a charming town famous for its gingerbread and Wordsworthian ties. Grasmere offered limited amenities, so we spent most of our time exploring the surrounding landscapes. We stayed in a little shepherd’s hut beside a stream, tucked behind a bed & breakfast. It was private, cozy, and just the right amount of charming. Each morning, we’d enjoy coffee with our own view before heading to the big house for a hearty English breakfast.
The town of Keswick surprised us with its lively, but cozy atmosphere. Unlike the bustling Windermere or quieter Grasmere, Keswick struck the perfect balance with its abundance of shops and cafés. We had one of our most memorable moments at Crow Park, perched above Derwentwater Lake, where panoramic views of the water and surrounding peaks took our breath away. We ended the day watching the sunset on the hill, accompanied by sheep grazing nearby and birds soaring above. The morning had been busy, taking the scenic route to Buttermere Lake, hiking around the area, and then driving the dramatic Honister Pass, where winding roads carved through stone reminded us just how ancient this landscape really is.
Our second day in the Lake District was even more adventure-filled. We set off on foot from Grasmere, winding our way along the trail toward Rydal, where we stopped to explore the mossy paths and the old cave, before continuing on to Ambleside. The route was quiet and green, passing stone walls, hidden streams, and stretches of pasture. In Ambleside, we caught the bus to Bowness-on-Windermere. There, we rounded off the day with a classic lake cruise, drifting past wooded shores and small islands as the late afternoon light shimmered across the water. We learned about the history of the area while taking in views that felt almost too perfect to be real.
Though our time in the Lake District was short, it felt rich and grounding. The contrast of cozy towns and mountainous landscapes gave us room to slow down and reflect.
the village of Grasmere in the Lake District
Crow Park in Keswick, in the Lake District
Stay:
Victorian House - we booked the Shepherd’s Hut, a cozy, private escape next to a stream.
Sights:
Keswick – a relaxed, walkable town with plenty of shops and cafés, ideal for leisurely exploration.
Crow Park – offering panoramic views of Derwentwater Lake and the surrounding peaks.
Buttermere Lake – a picturesque spot perfect for a quiet, reflective walk along its shores.
Honister Pass – dramatic drive with steep inclines, offering wild landscapes perfect for photography.
Moss Force Waterfall – easily accessible with beautiful surrounding trails.
Rydal Cave – scenic hike leading to a breathtaking cavern.
Ambleside – quaint town with great restaurants and the 17th-century Bridge House.
Bowness-on-Windermere – where most of the action is in Windermere; including shops, restaurants, pier, and The World of Beatrix Potter.
Food:
Grasmere Gingerbread Shop – famous for its unique gingerbread, a must-try when in the area.
Doi Intanon – cozy Thai restaurant in Ambleside
The Albert – classic British pub in Bowness-on-Windermere serving hearty food and local ales
inside Rydal Cave, in the Lake District
night 18/19/20/21 - Edinburgh
We arrived in Edinburgh by bus after dropping off our rental car at the airport, staying in the heart of New Town for our final four nights. The city was a shift from the countryside - livelier and more layered, but still full of charm. We started most mornings with coffee from local third-wave cafés (The Milkman was a favourite), then spent our days exploring the city on foot. Victoria Street, Dean Village, and the Royal Mile were among the most iconic stops, with quieter spots like corners of East Princes Street Gardens and Stockbridge offering a peaceful contrast. Rainy afternoons were perfect for the National Museum of Scotland, and we ended most evenings at cozy pubs, usually with a pint of cask ale in hand. On our last full day, we climbed Arthur’s Seat for a panoramic view of the city.
St Anthony’s Chapel Ruins in Holyrood Park, Edinburgh, Scotland
the Tron Kirk on the Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland
Stay:
Castle Street Apartments - we booked the Deluxe Studio
Sights:
Victoria Street – said to have inspired Diagon Alley from Harry Potter
Greyfriars Kirkyard – atmospheric graveyard with historical significance
Cowgate – offers a glimpse into Edinburgh's layered landscape
Dean Village – a tranquil area along the Water of Leith
East Princes Street Gardens – beautiful gardens in the city center
Royal Mile – the heart of Scotland's historic capital
Arthur’s Seat – ancient volcanic rock offering panoramic city views
Holyrood Park – a 259-hectare urban oasis rich in history and natural beauty
Water of Leith – Edinburgh's main river flowing through the city
Stockbridge – a charming village-like neighborhood
National Museum of Scotland – offers a world of discovery under one roof
Food:
The Milkman – a great spot for specialty coffee in the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town
Mary’s Milk Bar – beloved gelato shop in Grassmarket serving handmade gelato with rotating daily flavours
The Outsider – stylish yet relaxed restaurant with modern Scottish dishes and views of Edinburgh Castle; a solid choice for a cozy date
The Witchery – gothic, lavish dining beside Edinburgh Castle, known for its atmospheric interiors and indulgent Scottish cuisine.
Paradise Palms – eclectic vegetarian bar and restaurant with bold décor, creative plant-based plates, and a fun, artsy vibe
The Edinburgh Larder – charming café tucked just off the Royal Mile, serving hearty breakfasts, fresh baking, and lunches using locally sourced ingredients
Fortuna Coffee Bar – sleek New Town spot for specialty coffee, natural wine, and artisan charcuterie—great for a slow morning or casual evening glass.
Fortitude Coffee (Stockbridge) – independent coffee roaster with a minimalist vibe and excellent brews
LOWDOWN – tucked-away gem offering thoughtfully prepared specialty coffee
Hakataya – Japanese cuisine with a local twist; known for its ramen, sushi, and small plates
Little Fitzroy – cheerful café on Easter Road serving up quality coffee and a welcoming neighbourhood feel
Circus Lane in Stockbridge, Edinburgh, Scotland
I tried to make this itinerary as concise as possible (there’s a lot of stories to tell), but I will be sharing more on our adventures in a YouTube video. Thankfully I was able to pull directly from the actual itinerary/list we followed during our travels throughout the English countryside, otherwise I fear this would have taken far longer to put together. I had my Notion document on me at all times, with links to my Google map list, and we mostly just wandered between all the sights daily. This might not be the itinerary for everyone, but if you love to walk, explore, take photos, and drink coffee, I hope this helps you to enjoy your time in the UK as much as we did. I truly love researching itineraries (it was my job for a couple years, and my education is in Tourism), so make sure to subscribe if you’d like to read more of our travels!
